When in Rome, do as the Romans do: Speak Italian, eat pasta, compliment the roads (“I hear they all lead here!”).

When in Venice, do as the Venetians do: Speak English, drink tequila, and compliment the view of the Pacific (“Bitchin’ vista, dude!”).

We’re speaking, of course, about Venice, California. And the best place to soak up the local color? Venice Cantina, the new spot from the folks behind Paladar, Nacional, Lincoln, and Ivar. Located in the century-old St. Mark’s Hotel building, the restaurant serves Mexican classics with a modern, healthy twist: guava demi braised beef shortribs, rotisserie chicken in citrus-achiote salsa, aged cheddar-and-red chili sauce enchiladas.

To complete the sophisticated beach vibe, tequila sommelier Raul Yrastorza not only guides you through his extensive selection of liquors (including rare premium and handcrafted tequilas and mescals), but also helps you find the right choice to pair with your food. And situated right on the Venice Boardwalk, the Cantina is the perfect place to congregate for food, drink, and people-watching.

Which is, as any Venetian will tell you, what life out here is all about.

Venice Cantina, 23 Windward Avenue, at the Venice Beach Boardwalk, Venice Beach (310-399-8424).