You’re sly as a fox, cool as a kitty, and hungry like the wolf.

But do you have a bird in the hand?

You will at Ortolan, a new French bistro on Third, whose name refers to a tiny songbird in the bunting family. Renowned chef Christophe Emé (of L’Orangerie) and girlfriend Jeri Ryan (yes, of Star Trek and Boston Public) have created a dreamy spot in Linq’s former location, mixing classic French style with contemporary elements: Soft, neutral creams, beige quilted booths and crystal chandeliers lend a formal yet whimsical ambience, almost like the space is playing dress-up. The communal dining area feels almost medieval by contrast, with its long wooden table, inlaid vintage place settings, mismatched antique wooden chairs, and stone detailing.

Signature menu items include crispy langoustines with basil, chickpeas, and a shot of minestrone, as well as a roasted squab breast and leg with a gratin of macaroni and tapenade salad.

Ortolan may not quell all animal impulses.

But you definitely won’t be eating like a bird.

Ortolan, 8338 West Third Street, between Kings Road and Flores Street, L.A. (323-653-3300).