Hearing something “New York-style” is opening can turn you off. You envision skyscraper posters, taxicab-checker borders, and a sad excuse for a slice of pizza. But Bowery gets it right. Next door to newcomer Magnolia, the new bistro mixes NYC brasserie warmth and food with a laid-back L.A. agenda. Subway tiles, dark wood, a tin ceiling, and bar stools hauled in from Brooklyn make for a sleek neighborhood spot that doesn’t feel like it’s trying too hard. They start serving the French/American menu at 11 a.m. with omelets, salads, and sandies like the roasted turkey club. Meatier fare like the charcuterie plate and Belgian beer-battered shrimp show up later. Bowery Burgers (grilled sirloin on a freshly baked English muffin) are served all day, as are the pan-roasted chicken breast French dip and hand-cut regular and sweet potato fries. The focal point is the impressive bar, stocked with high-end liquors, a hand-picked wine list, and a selection of beers that ranges from Chimay to PBR. And for the skeptics who are wary of something so New York being well received in Los Angeles? Give them a piece of cheesecake. And fuggedaboutit. Bowery, 6268 Sunset Boulevard, between Vine Street and Argyle Avenue, Hollywood (323-465-3400).