Last week, Angelyne snaked your parking spot, the college girl next door invited you to a botox party, and Mr. Bluetooth/sunglasses/
collared shirt on the treadmill asked you to step out of his light.

Since down-to-earth can seem so original here, Ford’s Filling Station, the new gastropub opening today in Culver City, might cause a wave of whiplash. From the bar to the lofted ceiling in the dining room, chef Ben Ford (who calls Indiana Jones dad) has put together an all relaxed and decidedly un-Hollywood setting: rich woods, dark leather, exposed brick, wide-open patio.

Lunch, dinner, and weekend brunch menus change seasonally depending on availability of organic ingredients and a shifting geographical focus. For now, they’re serving steak tartare with fried quail egg and truffled potato chips, grilled white shrimp on rosemary flatbread, and meatloaf burger with tomato chutney.

Low-key ambiance and high-end flavor with both feet on the ground.

Let the freaks fly their flags somewhere else.

Ford’s Filling Station, 9531 Culver Boulevard, between Irving Place and Cardiff Avenue, Culver City (310-202-1470).