You’re as accepting of the “No Shirt, No Shoes, No Problem” policy as the next barefoot contessa, but more often than not you crave “Jackets Required” cuisine.

For the best of both, try David Haskell’s Bin 8945, where the fare is first-rate but not hoity-toity.

The menu, full of haute ingredients and classic techniques, is anchored by chef Matt Carpenter’s Caribbean and North African staples, such as his mom’s rice and peas and his aunt’s raisin duff cake.

Start with one of the daily ceviches served with house-made corn nuts and duck fat-popped popcorn, oysters on the half shell, or fried Fanny Bays with Cuban mojo. Small plates like chicken kofta start at $8 and go up to include entrees like blackened catfish with citrus risotto and pan-roasted mussels with coconut curry and sausage. And don’t neglect the worldly wine list (check out Portugal), featuring more than 50 by-the-glass options and more than 450 labels.

Though the kitchen doesn’t close until 1:30 a.m., sidewalk seating is prime summer real estate for Boystown people watching, so calling ahead is a good idea.

Also known as the “No Reservations, Shit Out of Luck” rule.

Bin 8945 Wine Bar and Bistro, 8945 Santa Monica Boulevard, between Robertson and San Vicente Boulevards, West Hollywood (310-550-8945 or bin8945.com).