Even at its worst (say, in squeezable form paired with stale Wonder), the cheese-and-bread combo is pretty much a winner.

At its best (say, in pizza form at Pizzeria Mozza, the new casual Italian spot), it’s the brilliant work of Joe Bastianich, Nancy Silverton, and Mario Batali.

Toppers include margherita with mozzarella di bufala; salami piccante with mozzarella and hot chiles; burrata, squash blossoms, and tomatoes; and mushrooms with fontina, taleggio, and thyme.

Not feeling the cheese? Try a formaggio-free pie with cooked egg and guanciale. Mazzo also serves salads, antipasti, cured meats, paninis, and daily specials (look soon for Tuesday night’s crisp duck legs with lentils and saba) — with lots of Italian wines to wash it all down.

And this is only the beginning. Osteria Mozza (which will feature a mozzarella bar) will open next year.

Until then, you know where to stuff your piehole.

Pizzeria Mozza, 641 North Highland Avenue, at Melrose Avenue (323-297-0101 or mozza-la.com).