Los Angeles - April 04, 2007

The Metric System

750ml

A fifth of one, 25.6 ounces of the other. It’s all the same.

Although 750ml is actually different. The new South Pas addition to Steven Arroyo’s restaurant roster (Cobras & Matadors, Malo) serves bistro classics with a twist and 50 wines to match.

Amidst the exposed brick and beams, red subway tiles, and wood and metal accents, a glass wall affords a view of the kitchen, where a bandanaed crew prepares the French-inspired fare.

Smaller bites — baby artichokes with bresaola, rocket, reggiantino, and lemon vinaigrette; mache salad with Bosc pear, Epoisse, feuille de brique, and fig dressing — make for lighter eats. Meaty dishes like cassoulet with white beans; smoked tomato, duck confit, and lardon; and the beef shoulder, radicchio, taleggio pomme fondue with bordelaise hold down the rest.

Plates aren’t meant to be shared, but ask real nice and someone will probably spare a bite.

Just say you need to see if it measures up.

750ml, 966 Mission Street, at Meridian Avenue, South Pasadena (626-799-0711).