You walk into a new restaurant.

Waitress: What’ll it be, lady?

You: I’ll take the buttermilk Belgian, the blueberry lemon, the applewood smoked bacon, and the gluten-free waffles. Extra house syrup, please.

Waitress: Hmpf! What kinda place do ya think this is?

You: Uh, The Waffle, the new early-morning/late-night Hollywood diner, where staff in Western shirts and cowboy boots serve up chef Scooter Kanfer-Cartmill’s modern take on American classics using farmers market fresh and artisanal ingredients?

Waitress: Well, yer right.

You: All the menu items are available night or day?

Waitress: You betcha.

You: In that case, I’ll take the Widget iceberg wedge, turkey burger with the works, meatloaf, fried chicken, house-made onion rings, and the vegan Reuben.

Waitress: No dessert?

You: A baked hot chocolate. And a shake. And maybe a maple martini from the bar upstairs.

Waitress: Alrighty then. Breakfast is served.

The Waffle, 6255 West Sunset Boulevard, between Vine Street and Argyle Avenue, Hollywood (323-465-6901 or thewaffle.us).