Los Angeles - September 22, 2008

Life, Liberty, and the Pursuit of Dinner

Church & State Restaurant Opens

The Government and Religion Fall Formal is one mixer we want nothing to do with.

But we’d never protest an invitation to Church & State, a new French brasserie opening today. Hidden deep downtown, it’s the newest eat and drinkery from Steven Arroyo (Malo, Cobras & Matadors, 750ml).

Taking its industrial good looks from the former Biscuit Company loading dock digs, the floor-to-ceiling window-fronted spot has been gussied up with Edison bulbs, red walls, antique mirrors and fixtures, and subway tiles.

The menu maintains the classics: fruits de mer; frisee, lardon, and poached egg salad; steak frites; baguette sandwiches; and cassoulet du jour. Just go easy on the French wines and specialty cocktails like the Fragrant Red Flower (gin, Campari, Cointreau, and lemon).

One too many and you could wind up in a swing state.


Church & State, 1850 Industrial Street, at Mateo Street, Downtown (213-405-1434). No reservations until Wednesday.