Los Angeles - May 08, 2009

I Said No, No, Nonno

Ado Italian Restaurant Opens

Boys will be boys, alright.

But none with quite the passione (or the stugots) as Italians.

See for yourself at Ado, the new Italian joint in Venice that’s entirely a male affair.

Named for the patriarch of co-owner Paolo Cesaro’s (Hidden, Via Veneto) family, the century-old lemon yellow house seats just 35. Cesaro works the intimate dining room upstairs, while partner/chef Antonio Mure (Piccolo, Locanda Veneta) is the one-man show below.

Everything’s made in-house, from the warm artichoke salad with Dungeness crab and grape reduction to Choke the Priest (ricotta and spinach gnocchi with Bolognese) to a trio of mousses you’ll go nuts for. A liquor license is on the way; air-kisses and ciao bellas are on the house.

Except for large parties (which, if they’re lucky, can eat family style by the kitchen), the ragazzi aren’t taking reservations.

That’ll keep them on the ball.

Ado, 796 Main Street, at Abbot Kinney Boulevard, Venice (310-399-9010 or adovenice.com).