A nip; a tuck; and just a touch of filler here, here, and here.
There you go, Gardens Restaurant, you’re now Culina Modern Italian, a fresh new enoteca. You’ll be ready for the public in just a few days.
Come Wednesday, have cocktails at the felled magnolia tree communal table or vino on the succulent-lined patio. Or start at the crudo bar watching chefs dish aragosta (lobster, pink peppercorns, grapefruit, chive oil) and other catches of the day.
Work up to salumi, panini, housemade pastas, and brick-oven pizzas, but always finish with olive oil gelato, made with the exclusive Umbrian EVOO of the house.
Know when you want to come in? Make reservations for breakfast, lunch, and dinner now.
And don’t worry: It’s Beverly Hills. Someone should be able to give you a lift.
Culina Modern Italian, in Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills, 300 South Doheny Drive, between Burton Way and West Third Street, Beverly Hills (310-860-4000 or culinaresturant.com).