Covell has finally opened in Los Feliz. A few things to know before you go:
1. You’ll recognize these guys: owner Dustin Lancaster, a former Cafe Stella barman, and wine director/manager Matthew Kaner, last spotted at Silverlake Wine.
2. Arrive early to stake your claim. Inside the done-up industrial space, a few high tables give way to low seating under a handsome display of antique cameras and a long bar (in the middle of which a jag carves out what might be the best seat in the house).
3. Kaner will grill you. He’ll want to know whether you’re eating (which you will be if you’re in the mood for one of Paige Handler’s well-composed cheese plates), your last great bottle of wine, and most recent travel destination. That’s all he needs to start pouring in the right direction.
4. Standard descriptors (viz. sweet, not sweet) won’t get you as far as a bit of imagination. Lancaster listens for key words: minerality, flinty, earthy, velvety, tannic, leathery, tobacco, chalky, floral, and fruit bomb.
5. Offerings change on a whim, but you’re welcome to store favorite labels safely in the vintage locker to sip next time you drop by.
5a. No matter what you open, Lancaster and Kaner agree the etiquette is to share — and we’re not just saying that because chances are we’re at the bar.
Covell, 4628 Hollywood Boulevard, between Vermont Avenue and Rodney Drive, Los Feliz (323-660-4400 or barcovell.com).
Photo: Courtesy of Amelia Burns
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