Wee are the world. Wee are the children. Wee — but stiff — are the drams of single-malt you’ll sip with kilted clan chiefs at Edinburgh’s three-century-old (at least) buildings-cum-chic hotels, bars, and eateries.
GPS
Scotland’s second largest city — still pretty damn quaint— is divided into hilltop Old Town (where architecture dates back 1,200 years) and New Town (242 years young). University students roam Old Town, shopping sweet, curved Victoria Street (above Grassmarket Square, a former hanging site) and castle-adjacent Royal Mile. You’ll find New Town past the statue of Edinburgh’s Skye terrier mascot, Greyfriars Bobby, down a twisting road called The Mound. Princes, George, and Queen Streets offer chain and upscale Harvey Nichols shopping, while side streets like Thistle; outer-lying, gourmet-market-lined Stockbridge; and still-funky Leith skew hepcat.
NEST
Ciao, lassies! Hotel Missoni (1 George IV Bridge; +44-131-220-6666) — the design house’s first — wows in Italian style: bold colors, panoramic views, in-room espresso, mosaic bathrooms, to-die-for bathrobes. Take the robe; leave the cannoli. Hotel du Vin (11 Bristo Place; +44-131-247-4900) may be a former loony bin, but Old Town’s new boutique offers sanctuary in the form of claw-foot tubs, cigar shack, and whisky snug. Post face-lift, The Rutland Hotel (1-3 Rutland Street; +44-131-229-3402) wows with twelve baroque-meets-modern rooms but really thrills at The One Below, the eatery, bar, and incognito club where tables have built-in sunken champagne buckets.
INGEST
Gentleman farms? Organic ingredients? Edinburgh lived locavore eons before your dry cleaner turned green. Belly up for fresh pastry (cardamom buns) and gourmet sandwiches at Peter’s Yard (Quarter Mile, 27 Simpson Loan; +44-131-228-5876). Pigs fly (well, decorate the ceiling) at New Town’s fresh-ingredient-obsessed newbie lunch spot Tony’s Table (58a North Castle Street; +131-226-6743, now closed); get Ugly Bread and Chili Pig (pork belly) pie. Michelin-star-central Leith is home to The Kitchin, Restaurant Martin Wishart, and the Plumed Horse. Right around the corner is Paul Kitching’s new 21212 (3 Royal Terrace; +44-131-523-1030). Whisky is good, but sometimes life calls for cocktails mixed with edible flowers, egg whites, or cardamom at nightlife hotspot Tigerlily (125 George Street; +44-131-225-5005).
INVEST
In New Town, shop Harvey Nichols, Topshop, and Jenners (since 1838) but hit smaller Thistle Street for indie boutiques like Kakao by K (#45, local UK designers), Covet (#20, UK accessories), 21st Century Kilts (#48, yup, hipster kilts), and Pam Jenkins (#41, shoes and accessories).
Enough fashion. Time for food. Stockbridge’s gourmet strip of Raeburn Place is a feast for eating now or gifting later. Don’t miss Stockbridge Chocolatiers (formerly Red Sugar Cafe) for handmade Black Moon and Mayan Fire cacao bars (now closed), Herbie of Edinburgh gourmet shop, and I.J. Mellis Cheesemonger.
On your way back to town center, if you can still button your pants, check out Scott designers at Concrete Wardrobe (50a Broughton Street; +44-131-558-7130). Back on Victoria Street, objectify yourself with UK design pieces at The Red Door (#42) and drink up at liquid deli Demijohn (#32).
THE REST
Handle your whisky (and learn your Islay from your Highland) at The Scotch Whisky Experience (354 Castlehill; +44-131-220-0441). Scottish? In honor of Homecoming Scotland (this year), visit the People’s Centre and trace your clan roots. Wanna see what heaven really looks like? Spend a few picturesque days in the Highlands in one of fourteen rooms at family owned Monachyle Mhor. Piglets and sheep graze 2,000 rolling acres, guests forage for wild mushrooms on the loch (that’s lake to you), and chef Tom Lewis (with talent and personality in spades) shows you what true farm-to-table cuisine looks like.
Aye. And that’s what we call living the dram (ahem) dream.
Photos: ipoh 7 / Flickr; Courtesy of Hotel Missoni; Courtesy of Peter’s Yard; Courtesy of Covet; Courtesy of Monachyle Mhor