Dinosaurs, eight-tracks, pumpable shoes: Some things just die. Others, like man-made fiber, improve over time (hurrah, Tencel).
That’s called evolution.
Appropriately, that’s also the name of chef David Bouley’s latest gastronomic endeavor, which opened yesterday and promises to bring the Miami dining scene up a few notches on the high-end food chain.
In typical South Beach style, every detail has been seen to. Designer Jacques Garcia sets an elegant stage with an art deco-meets-mermaid feel. Hand-painted glass constructions form circular mandalas and aquatic landscapes; gilded walls divide the lounge, sushi bar, and dining room.
In not-so-typical South Beach style, the cuisine outshines the decor. The menu’s both fresh French and brilliant Japanese — but not fusion. Perfect seafood specimens bob in an ocean of herbal broth. Satiny black sea bass bathes in black truffle dashi. Sweet organic lamb gets a zip of zucchini mint. And the warm chocolate souffle with caramel ice cream?
Hurrah, opposable thumbs.
Ritz-Carlton South Beach, 1669 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach (305-604-6090 or davidbouley.com).














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