February 20, 2008

An Offer You Can’t Re-Fuse

Abokado Opens

How did the Japanese chef get the Latin American chef to cook with him?

He made him an offer he could re-fuse!

The latest trend in fusion — Japanese Pan-Latin — lands in Mary Brickell Village at Abokado, a new resto combining the two regions’ distinctive flavors.

And it turns out that the two largely coastal cuisines have lots in common. Super-fresh fish served uncooked and seasonal produce that lends crunch, texture, and earthiness to the briny bounty add up to inventive cebiches, tiraditos, estraditos, and sushi.

Like the menu, the decor balances aquatic with terrestrial: an earthy palette, luxurious banquette upholstery, a soothing water wall, slate countertops, and photographs set on acrylic panels (for jolts of bright color).

The Abokado icon, a swirl signifying the stone of an avocado, says it all: The food is the main attraction.

And that’s a good thing, because the comedy sucks.

Abokado, 900 South Miami Avenue, Mary Brickell Village (305-347-3700 or abokadosushi.com).