Online - October 08, 2008

Meat the Parents

The Publican Restaurant Opens

Being an only child blows (overbearing Ma, overzealous Pa).  

Unless your parents are perfectly palatable (rare, we know).

Such is the case with The Publican, Avec and Blackbird’s new bundle of joy, due tomorrow night. Don’t coo at this baby: It’s a pork and beer joint with more than 75 bottled ciders, ales, stouts, and lagers; twelve seasonally rotating on-tap brews; and more meat than a Biggest Loser marathon.

Executive chef Paul Kahan and chef de cuisine Brian Huston make a mean team, paying careful attention to ingredients (hyper-seasonally selected) and presentation. Mussels from Maine are served in a copper pot; beef fat-cooked French fries come topped with a fried egg. Munch on rillons and rillettes while you wait for your pot-au-feu (pork cheek, short ribs, and oxtail).

Sounds like a winner.

Guess it runs in the family.

The Publican, 845 West Fulton Market, between Peoria and Green Streets (312-733-9555).