The old song and dance: A young, ambitious talent (Franck Monnier) spends years plying his craft (pastry) behind the scenes for a big name brand (The Four Seasons). The twist: Talent breaks free and opens his own studio (L’Atelier Gourmet) in a low-key area of town (South Miami) working with the finest materials (Sicilian pistachios, Papantla vanilla, and seasonal fruits), without colorants or preservatives. The grapevine: Word spreads and insiders stream to the modest storefront for first dibs on banana, praline, or caramel ice cream; lychee or green apple sorbet; baked goods like profiteroles and macaroons; and frozen cakes combining parfait, coulis, and meringue. The artisanal jams — like the Caribbean, made with tropical fruits — are also highly coveted. The two-step: Call at least two days ahead to place a custom order. If you top $100, L’Atelier delivers for free. Because sometimes you don’t want to bust a move. L’Atelier Gourmet, 4372 Southwest 73rd Avenue, South Miami (305-262-5332 or lateliergourmet.com). Live from New York, it’s Fashion Week. Read all about it with posts from the front lines at dailycandy.com/dossier.