While most New Yorkers are just stumbling out of bars and into cabs (or fire hydrants) at 3 a.m., Lina Kulchinsky (at right, with helper Tricia Wancko) is up and at ’em, having already spent the night baking dozens of hot, crusty ’zels. Somehow she even manages to look like a fashionable (much, much younger) babushka in her kerchief.