Between mustard foam on your hot dog and avocado in your ice cream, you can’t help but think that the restaurant industry’s gone off its rocker.
Finally, a dose of sanity: Left Bank, a New American bistro opening today in the West Village, keeps things simple.
Owner Micheline Gaulin and chef-owner Laurence Edelman, both Mermaid Inn vets, envisioned and brought to life an approachable neighborhood restaurant that masters the understated. Expect just a smattering of appetizers (lamb tartare, Parmesan, anchovy), house-made pastas (gnocchi, rustic summer pesto, Vermont butter), and entrees (pan-roasted pork chop, young sauerkraut) made with humanely raised meats and local ingredients.
A concise wine list with rare varietals and compact craft beer program make the case for restraint. Exposed white brick, an antique glass and wrought iron chandelier, crimson accents, and rotating art (starting with Jenny Ziomek’s haunting portraits) up the restaurant’s charm factor.
It’s a new standby you can bank on.
Left Bank, 117 Perry Street, at Greenwich Street (212-727-1170 or leftbankmanhattan.com).
Photo: Niki Dankner