We admit it: The routine (while delicious) is getting stale. Starting tomorrow, break it at La Mar Cebicheria Peruana from Gastón Acurio, better known as the ambassador of Peruvian cuisine.
Compact powerhouse offerings like Encamotados (sweet potato-crusted shrimp with purple corn reduction) and Elegance (fluke, red onion, corn, and yam in a lime broth) captivate. Relish bites from shared plates like pastel de choclo (pictured above), a subtly sweet corn cake padded with white onions and raisins, formed by the inspired fingers of executive chef and Lima transport Victoriano Lopez.
South American touches by local architect Stephanie Goto (Aldea, Corton) and Kanbayashi Design Studios add international flavor: an abstract wall mural constructed from 8,000 individually pinned Peruvian corn kernels; a texture corn cloud hovering above a semiprivate dining space; and 4,000 glass beads dangling from monofilaments that simulate a splash of water.
La Mar Cebicheria Peruana, 11 Madison Avenue, at East 25th Street (212-612-3388 or lamarcebicheria.com).
Photo: Janelle Jones