Picture the quintessential Brit: trench, bowler, sense of propriety.

Now imagine that’s all she has on.

That’s how we think of Whitehall — classic on the surface but primed to flash. The London-themed gin joint and kitchen from Brian McGrory and chef Chris Rendell (Highlands, Mary Queen of Scots) opens tonight.

Rendell’s modern-yet-approachable British fare and inspired condiments echo the white-tiled front bar. Slatted benches and specials scrawled on blackboards and mirrors nod at train stations; an exposed-brick dining room with scarlet banquettes proves more intimate.

Start with rounds of butternut squash and lemon feta salad or grilled squid and pork sausage with Gentleman’s relish (an 1800s anchovy and butter concoction). More substantial offerings include curried root vegetable and lentil stew and rabbit sage sausage with champ scallion, pickled fennel, and mustard gravy.

Brunch starts Sunday, lunch next week, and a seasonal gin-centric cocktail menu off the bat.

Which we find royally fitting.

Whitehall, 19 Greenwich Avenue, at West 10th Street (212-675-7261 or whitehall-nyc.com).

Photo: Image Source / Getty Images