Branch out to Gwynnett St., opening today on a so-up-and-coming-its-not drag in Williamsburg.
The debut solo venture from Esca’s former wine director, Carl McCoy, specializes in modern American fare.
Understated decor (exposed brick, simple wooden tables) allows you to focus on unexpectedly artful creations from the kitchen. Chef Justin Hilbert’s (WD-50) pared-down seasonal menu deserves a thorough review, starting with the spinach, rapini, and shaved broccoli salad with pickled onion and sea-salted egg.
Fight the urge to skip the Amish chicken, brined for 24 hours and nestled between sweet potato spaetzle, turnips, and dates. Foam home with a deconstructed apple crisp with goat’s milk froth.
McCoy’s wines make a case for posting at the manly bar, but come December, a roaring fireplace (fingers crossed) will draw you to the back den.
It’s uncharted territory worth exploring.
Gwynnett St., 312 Graham Avenue, at Ainslie Street, Williamsburg (347-889-7002 or gwynnettst.com).
Photo: Niki Dankner