Dear LES,

With all your late-night clubby goodness in mind, we thought we’d introduce you to the ideal wingman: Andy Ricker of Pok Pok Wing.

The James Beard Award-winning Portland chef has opened his first NYC venture, to the dismay of the city’s Thai grandmothers.

Ricker’s menu, like the ’60s-’80s Thai folk-rock-pop album-covered space, is small. Regular and spicy Ike’s Vietnamese fish sauce wings join khao man (fatty coconut rice) and spicy-sweet-sour papaya pok pok salad with long beans and salted black crab.

Apple and pomegranate drinking vinegars provide a break from cocktails (unless you keep a flask of gin on your person). And a wise word: Although the fare is hot, don’t bother trying to look it.

You’re going to get (and want) sauce everywhere.

Sincerely,

Your trusted DailyCandy wingmen

Pok Pok Wing, 137 Rivington Street, between Norfolk and Suffolk Streets (212-477-1299 or pokpokwing.com).

Photo: Austin Bush Photography / Courtesy of Pok Pok