Finding a bar with decent food is a royal pain.
Well, it was — before The Monarch ruled.
After winning rave reviews at Kith & Kin and earning Graham Elliot two Michelin stars, Andrew Brochu set his sights on the understated Wicker Park bar (formerly Uberstein).
Look past the flat-screen TVs to focus on the grub. Standbys (burgers, pimiento cheese, soft pretzels, PEI mussels) mingle with less-traditional options: foie gras mousse with strawberry jam, fried green tomato sandwich, glazed beef cheek, king crab salad.
Grilled romaine hearts take Caesar’s place at the throne; you’ll usurp the frites with truffle mayo. Under Brochu’s knife, everything is technically perfect, approachable, and phenomenally delicious.
Order ice cream to finish, and your server greets you with an Igloo cooler full of options.
It reigns supreme.
The Monarch, 1745 West North Avenue, at Wood Street (773-252-6053 or monarchchicago.com).
Photo: Francis Hammond / Getty Images