Sometimes, in a world of chaos, the best way to get a sense of control is a makeover. — Dionne, paraphrased
Or more precisely, when you’re restaurant owner Penny Bradley and Sandy hits, reopen as Cole’s Greenwich Village, now up in the former Lyon space.
For the revamp, Bradley enlisted seasoned trio David Rabin (The Lamb’s Club), Johnny Swet, and Larry Poston (Jimmy at The James). The new pedigree demands you start with Swet’s tweaked classic cocktails (applejack old-fashioned, sage Sazerac) before getting cozy in the sketch- and print-filled dining room (a nod to the neighborhood’s ’50s art scene).
Once seated, tuck into chef Daniel Eardley’s (Chestnut) white shrimp atop winter citrus and pillowy kabocha squash ravioli with burned sage and ricotta salata. We dig the crisp chicken, though Eardley also tempts with four ways to get beefy (stout-braised ribs, dry-aged strip, hanger steak with blue cheese, cheddar burger). Decadent desserts are gluten friendly.
You’d be clueless not to save room.
Cole’s Greenwich Village, 118 Greenwich Avenue, at 13th Street (212-242-5966).
Photo: Jordan Blumberg / DailyCandy