So you didn’t make it to Portugal for the holidays.

But you managed to hail a cab down to TriBeCa. (No small feat, mind you.)

And just in time for the opening of Pico, John Villa’s (of Judson Grill and the Boathouse) new spot that’s brimming with Portuguese ceramics, modern paintings, and a black-and-white tiled floor that recalls the sweeping striped sidewalks in Portuguese towns.

Still sightseeing? You can watch what goes on in the kitchen through two windows. Villa also serves a killer meal at his “chef’s table” — a twelve-seat plank table intended for special parties and multi-course tastings. And, a New York factoid: the space was designed by Villa’s wife, Regina Graves, who was a set designer for Woody Allen.

We love the bathrooms with those glass sinks and chrome fixtures. And the wine room? It’s rustic, it’s beautiful, and the list is an oenophile’s dream?with an incredible selection of Bordeaux, Burgundy, as well as new (and inexpensive) Portuguese wines.

Villa, at 29, is one smart cook — a two-star guy, at least. Consider it the trip you couldn’t take: Pico is a sultry, sexy vision of Portugal. Send a postcard if you can.