It’s such a sweet little corner. That one, just far away enough from Pastis that you can actually hear your dinner partner speak.

When Le Gans opened there, we had such hopes. And when it closed, our heart sank. Well, wishes do come true. Especially when a Claus (make that Clauss) and a shrink are involved.

Julian Clauss-Ehler and his wife, CC Clauss, (she’s the shrink) have revamped the spot and opened Menu, the latest addition to the meatpacking district.

How exactly this culinary concept works, we’re not sure. But here’s the premise. The menu at Menu is composed of several menus, each with three appetizers and two entrees (whoa, loosen that belt buckle). Each is based on a region, a source, an ingredient, or a whimsy. There’s the Comfort menu, the Sweet menu, the Meat Packer’s menu, and the Menu on the Edge. You’ll find tempura cod served on spiced chips and peas; lamb carpaccio with mint, harissa dressing, cinnamon cous cous, and raisin salad); and Bluepoint oysters with sherry-onion marmalade and wasabi powder.

Our only question is, if you can’t mix-and-match, how long till they have to institute the High Maintenance menu?