Before you roll your eyes, hear us out. This is the one you’ve been waiting for. Today db, the latest from Daniel Boulud, opens, and we’re just grateful that Danny boy’s latest product is a “bistro moderne” rather than a TV dinner. (Wolfgang, shame on you.) No, Boulud hasn’t left us to fend for ourselves in the frozen-food section of the A&P just yet. Instead he’s sending us to MiWe (that’s Midtown West to you).

The classic Paris bistro is pared-down with impeccable touches courtesy of Jeffrey Beers (who designed the Dylan). The menu features dishes like open ravioli with lobster, morels, and peas; a mushroom fricassee; and tuna tartare with sweetbreads.

“This is my place to play,” says Daniel (read: his interpretation of a burger is red-wine-braised short-ribs on a shallot bun with chickpea fries; and Earl Grey gets the sabayon makeover, which is the most indulgent take on tea we can think of).

So Boulud “plays.” You pay.
Isn’t that the way these things always work?