Food & Drink

Eat and Have Fung Tu

An elegant take on Chinese

In a world of chaos, your Chinese takeout order (sesame chicken, side of fried rice) is unflappable.

New LES/Chinatown gem Fung Tu is a game changer.

The crew behind the creative culinary joint is a force to be reckoned with: Chef Jonathan Wu (Per Se), Wilson Tang (Nom Wah Tea Parlor), John Matthew Wells (Mas Farmhouse), and drink director/famed Chicago sommelier Jason Wagner (The Gage, Henri) infuse local ingredients with ingenious flavors for a flawless culturally inspired menu.

Where to begin? With a cocktail, of course. We guzzled Oolong Spritz (infused Aperol, prosecco, club soda) and Shrub Tu (Dorothy Parker gin, absinthe, raspberry shrub) before hitting the global wine list.

fung tu!

Rather than the hundreds of numbered dishes you’ve come to expect, the menu is divided into snacks, small plates (cold and hot), large plates, and sweets. Pair your cocktail with addictive spicy-sweet peanuts, dill, and Chinese beef jerky. Transformative egg rolls 2.0 — braised pork belly, olives, pickled bird chiles, leeks, and cilantro, bundled in a flaky egg-tempura shell — disarm every stereotype. Don’t miss the sweet potato rice cakes atop an umami-laced mound of kale and sausage.

Peanut butter and chocolate ganache sesame balls as well as almond jelly with candied celery and pickled cranberries are too good to pass up.

Leaving the romantically lit enclave (Wu’s wife, Jane D’Arensbourg, assisted with design) is almost as difficult as naming your favorite dish.

Fung yeah.

Fung Tu, 22 Orchard Street, between Canal and Hester Streets (212-219-8785 or fungtu.com).

Photos: Stephania Stanley for DailyCandy

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22 Orchard St
bt Canal & Hester Sts
New York, NY 10002