Food & Drink

Go All In at All’onda

A refreshing addition to Union Square


You’re still searching for a way to stand out without being the village idiot.

Take notes from All’onda, Union Square’s new Italian restaurant. Its spin on Venetian cuisine (with a hint of Japanese) and thoughtful, nautical-inspired decor achieve just the right balance in a neighborhood overrun with quick and casual college-centric haunts.

Chris Jaeckle (Ai Fiori, Morimoto) preps your palate with plentiful apps. Dive into sardines topped with pickled pearl onions, pine nuts, and fennel; or choose chunks of raw tuna piled high with Cerignola olives, kizami wasabi, preserved tomato, and an unexpected pop of basil.


Move on to one of six pastas, including bucatini bathed in a cream sauce flecked with smoked uni and spicy breadcrumbs and rigatoni with aged duck ragu, Treviso, and chocolate. Can’t-miss sides include brown butter-and-soy-flavored Jerusalem artichokes and Brussels sprouts roasted with cider vinegar, honey, curry, and pistachios.

The sprawling two-story space — with paint-washed brick, walnut paneling, honeycomb tiles, and brass light fixtures — provides a warm, upscale environment for the food and the all-star beverage list (one-third dedicated to unusual bubbles) drawn up by Chris Cannon.

Nothing silly about that.

All’onda, 22 East 13th Street, between Fifth Avenue and University Place (212-­231-­2236 or allondanyc.com).

Photos: Stephania Stanley for DailyCandy

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22 E 13th St
bt 5th Ave & University Pl
New York, NY 10003