Consider it the de-theming of West 57th Street. For the past ten or so years, this stretch of midtown and its environs have offered such, um, intriguing culinary options as the Hard Rock Cafe, Planet Hollywood, Jekyll & Hyde, Motown Cafe, and The Harley-Davidson Caf?. (For those who weren’t hungry, there was always the Warner Brothers Studio Store.)But it seems that the theme-park landscape is taking a decidedly more upscale turn. First came Rue 57, then Brasserie 8 1/2…Today Shelly Fireman, the man who took us back to Brooklyn (as in Diner) and put us on the Red Eye (as in Grill), opens Shelly’s New York, a four-level restaurant complete with martini and wine bars (serving twelve martini variations and fifteen wines by the glass, respectively), an oyster and raw bar, numerous private dining rooms, a rooftop terrace, a ballroom, and an American menu with such unique delicacies as a hamburger with seared foie gras.We’re just glad there’s a spot in the ‘hood that’s not peddling T-shirts and baseball caps.Traces of the theme park remain: Watch out for the three-clawed Maine lobster.