New York - November 11, 2002

Who's on First?

Starfoods Restaurant

Brian McNally has left the building. Smith, his troubled bistro, didn’t survive to see its first birthday.

Well, in with the new. Byron Bates and his secret network of partners have transformed the East Village space into Starfoods. It’s down-home, low-key, and very indie-rock. (Expect wannabes to flock.) It’s only “75 percent finished,” but the vibe is clear: Texas truck stop meets Granny’s French roadhouse. The front room has Space Invaders floor tile and diner-style booths; the back room is all library lights and flea-market charm.

Too bold to pull off? Nah. Go ahead and order fried catfish with hush puppies or a pulled-pig sandwich along with saucisson or frisee-and-lardon salad. Other seemingly paradoxical but actually great choices include rabbit stew over savory grits or chicken-fried steak au poivre. Tell Zeke (waiter, writer, Oscar hopeful) to keep the jalapeno cheddar biscuits coming.

Has chef Shawn Knight (Duane Park Cafe) traded in his clogs for chaps, spurs, and a black beret? Maybe. But the gang here just wanted to create a place where people could get messy.

Who are we to argue with French cowboys?

Starfoods, 64 East 1st Street, between First and Second Avenues (212-260-3116).