New York - March 05, 2003

Adult Education

Barbaluc Restaurant Opens

Here’s the thing about growing up.

It blows.

Except when it doesn’t.

Like when you realize that you have better things to do than convince the surly hostess at the latest flash-in-the-pan that you really did make a reservation.

Leave that nonsense to the kids, and head to the decidedly mature Upper East Side. Barbaluc, just opened by Le Cirque alums Emanuele Simeoni and Galvano Massimiliano, is perfect for those in search of an outstanding meal (and who have the palate to appreciate it) in a chic (but not flashy) setting. (Is that a wine rack in the corner or a Duchamp sculpture?)

The ground floor enoteca serves lighter fare to a bar crowd. Serious diners should head downstairs, where the menu includes starters like duck salad and grilled calamari and octopus with radicchio, and main courses like John Dory with porcini and sea-bass ravioli. Pastry chef Iacopo Falai likes to bend vegetables to his sweet will, surrounding vanilla flan with asparagus foam and balsamic sauce.

Italian by way of the Friuli-Venezia region, Barbaluc refers to an elf of legend that appears in your wineglass when you’ve had one too many drinks.

Just in time to reassure you that adulthood is a lovely thing.

Barbaluc, 135 East 65th Street, between Park and Lexington Avenues (212-774-1999).