Once upon a time, the beach bag was a simple straw thing that cost about as much a pastrami sandwich.

Once upon a time.

The past few years’ resurgence of the hay tote has, quite clearly, killed that concept.

Now every city chick thinks the dust in her apartment is sand and is clamoring for whatever “it” bag has been declared. (And never underestimate the going rate for conjuring up that beachy je ne sais quoi).

Here’s the DailyCandy pick of the season: The Sabu tote from Jamin Puech, shown at right.

Made of rose-colored straw with sturdy wooden handles, it’s the prettiest thing we’ve seen in a while.

We do regret to inform you that while it’s no Fendi baguette, it still will cost you some bread.