When giving an icon a makeover, it’s advisable to call in the experts.
Lever House, the 1950 landmark that revolutionized skyscraper design, opens its first restaurant today, also called Lever House. Partners John McDonald (Merc Bar, Canteen) and Josh Pickard (Time Cafe, Joe’s Pub) raided the Union Square Cafe kitchen, enlisting chef Dan Silverman and pastry chef Deborah Snyder. Hey, pedigree demands pedigree.
What do you get when downtown does midtown? The lunch and after-work place of the season (Four Seasons, you’ve got competition) and a menu built for expense accounts. “For the Table” raw starters include ceviches, tartares, and carpaccios. Entrees of note: filet mignon poached in red wine and a near-overwhelming cote de boeuf for two. Selections change seasonally, so try the corn-and-lobster chowder and duck breast a la cerises while there’s still time. And leave room for mixed-berry Napoleon or the chocolate creme-fraiche dome.
The stunning space, designed by Marc Newson, recalls the interior of a NASA control room. There are no hard angles, just rounded corners and soothing greens and browns. (Wear your best Prada.) Raised booths line one wall, a private dining area looks out onto the room, and hexagons form a honeycomb pattern everywhere.
A wink to the buzz that will follow? No doubt.
Lever House, 390 Park Avenue, at 53rd Street (212-888-2700).














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