When the Upper East Side’s beloved Sant Ambroeus closed in 2001, New York lost its best cappuccino.

And Euro-inclined taste buds cried out across the island.

“Putain! Reduced to Starbucks! Where the espresso is watery and the crappuccino is four times too big!”

Some alighted to Via Quadronno but found it unsatisfyingly uncharming. Others drove to Sant Abroeus’s Southampton location but started to suffer from the commute.

“Really, Manuela, it’s easier to fly to Milan.”

Relax, fair ones. The civilized jolt is back … and with a shiny new West Village location. The next generation has the same great coffee, same lovely pastries. And, yes, the same heavenly gelato. Gone is the fancy restaurant; in its place is a lower-key cafe, featuring northern-Italian fare. Not inclined to two-hour lunches? Grab a panino and dash. The whole attitude is younger and much less formal.

Then again, that tends to happen to everyone who moves from Madison Avenue to Perry Street.

Sant Ambroeus, 259 West 4th Street, at Perry Street (212-604-9254).