Food & Drink

Generation Next

Sometimes the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree.

Sometimes it just moves three blocks west and five blocks south, from an old-school hotel to a funky modern one.

Chef Shane McBride and owners Jean-Philippe Leloup and Philipp Posch worked together at Lespinasse. When the restaurant closed, the young alums teamed up to open Oceo in the Time Hotel.

The food: classic with a fresh twist. Sevruga-caviar parfait is offset by apple sorbet. Gnocchi are paired with tasso, a Cajun smoked ham. Tuna sashimi is served over caramelized pink grapefruit. An apple turnover arrives with Calvados ice cream and hard cider. Everything works together perfectly.

The room is accented with deep reds and oranges. The staff couldn’t be more welcoming and friendly.

Who said kids can’t get along just fine without adults?

Oceo, 224 West 49th Street, between Broadway and Eighth Avenue (212-262-6236).