New York - September 15, 2004

Reeling Them In

Lure Restaurant Opens

When you live on an island, it helps to like seafood.

When you’re a fussy, overbored, protein-obsessed, relentlessly Nobu-addicted see-and-be-seener, well … you’re a pain-in-the-ass diner, and you should consider yourself lucky that New York can handle you.

Your new galley: Lure Fishbar, which is opening today in the space that used to be Canteen. The Lever House gang is at the helm; the hook, in case your reference meter is set to numb, is nautical — from dishes to decor.

Chef Josh Capon (oh, just make your own fowl joke) is serving ridiculously fresh fish (it was swimming in New Zealand at breakfast; you’re getting it for dinner) in this season’s most popular raw preparations — carpaccios, tartares, and ceviches. Everything is made for sharing, from starters (lobster with garlic and chili on sourdough, yellowtail with lemon-jalapeño sauce, and salmon with pickled Japanese cucumbers and basil-soy tea) to entrées (grilled whole dourade, steamed black cod, and oil-poached salmon).

The space looks so much like a yacht you might forget the Prada store is upstairs. Any surface not made of highly polished wood is done in fabrics reminiscent of white vinyl seat covers and blue life-preserver fabric.

The pictures on the wall will make you think you’re summering with Jack and Jackie in Hyannis Port.

Talk about baiting the hook.

Lure Fishbar, 142 Mercer Street, at Prince Street (212-431-7676).