Put your napkins in your laps …The very first soft shell crabs of the season have arrived. “There’s an excitement when the first crabs hit the market,” says Colin Mather of The Seafood Shop in Wainscott, Long Island. “They definitely are an awaited item.”

Some of the first crawlers are being served at Cafe Loup in the West Village, where they are prepared tempura-style over greens with an Asian garnish and Vietnamese dipping sauce. Other restaurants, like Mesa Grill, serve them southwestern-style, fried in blue corn, with aioli, onions and tomatoes.

To celebrate this harbinger of spring, Cafe Loup is offering DailyCandy subscribers with a soft spot for the soft shell a free glass of wine. So enjoy?the season lasts but a few months.(Another bonus: You might spot Uma and Ethan. They’re Caf? Loup regulars).

Cafe Loup, 105 West 13th St, at West Broadway,(212-255-4746).