New York - September 29, 2004

A Fish's Tale

Bar Tonno Opens

Steak better call its publicist. It’s about to have a rough go of it.

Fish, quite frankly, has never had it so good.

Lure was just the beginning of the fall 2004 seafood craze. Today Bar Tonno opens in the space that used to house the Cleveland Place Bar Veloce. Here’s what’s the same: the hot owners, the long, skinny bar setup, and the chic Italian vibe. Here’s what’s different: the menu. Not that you’ll miss the pressed panini — you’ll be too busy reeling over the raw seafood.

Tonno is the Italian word for “tuna” and the Japanese word for “king,” which pretty much sums up the royal treatment fish gets from chef Scott Conant (of L’Impero). His innovation? Sushi with a decidedly Adriatic kick. Chef de cuisine Kyohei Fukushi will be executing Conant’s recipes, the most inspired of which include orata with Sicilian oranges and red-pepper oil, scallops tossed with chives and sea salt, and buttery anchovies with pickled heirloom eggplant and artichoke puree. You’ll want several shots of squid-ink soup with mussels and calamari.

Most plates are priced between $12 and $14, and everything is meant for sharing (though you probably won’t want to). The kitchen serves till 3 a.m., which should make for a well-fed late-night scene.

They’re installing an aquarium up front and filling it with sharks and stingrays.

That’ll keep the bulls at bay.

Bar Tonno, 17 Cleveland Place, between Spring and Kenmare Streets (212-966-7334).