I pledge allegiance to the flag of the Uninviting Plates of America. And to the all-you-can-eat buffet for which it stands, one nation, indigestible, with liberty and gastroesophageal reflux for all.
And now, a moment of grateful silence, as chef Bobby Flay sheds his (much-needed) grace on thee with Bar Americain (pronounced in the Frenchie way). Designer David Rockwell’s ginormous yet inviting space, inspired by the bustle of a classic brasserie, features burnt-amber-and-red lighting, arched ceilings, a 28-foot bar, and a colorful argyle marble-and-wood floor. Sit in semiprivate round booths and admire the open kitchen or the wine collection’s sleek glass casings.
Flay pays homage to regional American dishes like lamb sausage and white beans, hot potato chips with blue cheese sauce, and crispy squash blossoms stuffed with pulled pork (which will have taste buds guessing between Chattanooga or Portland). Or simply choose from the large selection of fresh oysters, clams, and lobster at the raw bar.
Proof that we’re more than just the land of the free dessert with purchase and the home of the gravy.
Bar Americain, 152 West 52nd Street, between Sixth and Seventh Avenues (212-265-9700).