Click your heels three times and you’ll find it: Cafe Gitane without the Gauloise attitude; Pink Pony without the unwashed hipster stench.

Toto, we’re not in Kansas anymore.

The other night while roaming from Chinatown to NoLIta, we caught a glimpse of Epistrophy. Grungy (and gorgeous) Italian newlyweds, Luca Fadda and Giorgia Zedda, were placing finishing touches on the old-world interior of their new resto: bistro chairs, dark wooden bar, tin ceiling. The place looks like it’s been there for years, and it immediately won our vote for new favorite hangout. (And it’s so discreet that when we returned the following night, we almost couldn’t find it.)

Epistrophy was named for the Thelonious Monk jazz tune, probably because they realized no one would be able to say “FaddaZedda” ten times in a row after three glasses of Brunello. For now, it’s operating as a wine bar, but after late September this will be the place for your morning espresso, daily paper, free WiFi, and general loitering. A mostly organic bill of fare (inspired by the couple’s native Sardinia) is on the way, as are music performances and art displays.

The idea, according to Fadda, was to “create a little living room.”

If that’s the case, there’s no place like home.

Epistrophy, 200 Mott Street, between Spring and Kenmare Streets (212-966-0904).