New York - September 16, 2005

A Perfect Cercle

Cercle Rouge Opens

Every great caper has three key ingredients: stylized characters, honorable thieves, and jewel-heist drama.

One might say the same of good neighborhood restaurants, too.

Case in point: Cercle Rouge, the newly minted Tribeca bistro named after Jean-Pierre Melville’s French gangster flick.

Stylized characters: Owner Georges Forgeois (of Cafe Noir and Bistro Jules). Chef David Féau (former Lutèce chef and Guy Savoy protégé). Maitre d’ Fabrice Warin (of Orsay).

The drama: A tweaked bistro menu (fois gras terrine and New York steak) with modified Parisian flair (oui! à Serge Gainsbourg, non! aux cigarettes). Two-tops for wine sharing, a big round booth for conspiring, and a 2 a.m. closing time. (This could prove dangerous.)

The thieves: Fresh oysters and cold lobster steal the attention, though crispy bacon frisee salad with poached egg and clams with chorizo in New England chowder sauce pilfer some of the limelight. The menu is heavy on surf and turf: Pan-seared scallops, herb-crusted lamb chops, and salmon a l’unilateral come with nine possible sauces.

Now go, roguish players, and write your next caper.

Cercle Rouge, 241 West Broadway, between Beach and White Streets (212-226-6252).