Used to be, the word “organic” described fourth-grade compost heaps and West Village couples who didn’t dye their hair. Then you caught yourself wearing Eduns and spending $4 on a sustainable tomato. So what’s next, green trendster? Appellation Wines & Spirits, the first wine shop in NYC to specialize in organic and biodynamic wines. As in, they sell wines made with minimal or no pesticides. Because, according to owner Scott Pactor, wines should “reflect the earth from which they come.” Pactor cut his teeth as assistant wine director at Balthazar, so don’t be surprised to see the hand-picked selection of old- and new-world bottles organized as they would be on a wine list — by country, from light to full. At first glance, the place looks more like a chic study than a retail store. A sturdy table and a cluster of chairs fill the center of the minimalist space; a bookshelf crammed with viticultural resources begs browsing. Feeling lazy after all that learning? Appellation will deliver even a single bottle of wine to your door. So keep it natural. And keep ’em coming. Appellation Wine & Spirits, 156 Tenth Avenue, between 19th and 20th Streets (212-741-9474 or appellationnyc.com).