While everyone is gridlock’d in the culinary Epcot north of Ninth and 14th, we’ll be catching the 6 to 28th Street, the cozier restaurant row that stretches from Eleven Madison to Country. That’s where A Voce, Andrew Carmellini’s first solo venture, opens today. You know, the mellow and beloved San Domenico/Lespinasse/Le Cirque alum who won James Beard Best NYC Chef last year … and then left his job at Cafe Boulud. The man’s got dreams, after all. And Carmellini’s are of comfort Italian — grilled octopus, grandma’s ravioli, chicken cacciatora, glazed duck. He claims to not be reinventing the wheel, but he’s certainly put his spin on it. Pastry chef April Robinson (similarly pedigreed at Cafe Grey and Ducasse) follows with tiramisu, panna cotta, and granitas, gelati, and sorbetti. The room is bright, airy, and modernist, dressed in dark woods, caramel swivel chairs, and chartreuse table tops. Come spring, they’ll be serving on a lemon-tree-lined, 100-seat outdoor patio. A Voce (which means “word of mouth”) is relaxing and inspiring — and a far cry from the jockeying at hostess stands across town. Amen to that. A Voce, 41 Madison Avenue, at 26th Street (212-545-8555).