Food & Drink

Pant, Pant …

When it comes to fine dining, we like to think about pants. Sometimes you need a little give in waist, and sometimes you want them charmed right off you.

That’s the case at Trestle on Tenth, a quaint, new, sophisticated, artisanal kind of eatery headed by Swiss chef Ralf Kuettel.

But it’s not only for fancy pants. Trestle (a nod to the nearby High Line) is a reminder that sometimes all a restaurant needs to be about is the food.

Kuettel shows his old-country roots in dishes like oxtail terrine, radishes and spicy mustard, and cauliflower soup with chervil. Succulent braised short ribs and stuffed veal breast with rye berries exemplify a wholesome American side. The vino all comes from mom-and-pop wineries.

Housed in a 19th-century building with a charming garden, the room’s soft lighting and exposed brick walls will have you longing for a bygone era.

You’re eager to take a peek, we know.

Just try to keep your pants on.

Trestle on Tenth, 242 Tenth Avenue, at 24th Street (212-645-5659 or trestleontenth.com).