food-drink -

Don’t Mess with Texas

Hey, cowboy.
“Yes’m.”

Whatcha thinking? Opening a restaurant in New York? “No one’s doing what I’m doing, so I thought I’d give it a shot.”

And what kind of food is that? “Urban Western.”

Hence the name, Lonesome Dove. And “prairie butter,” that addictive slab of bone marrow and grilled camp bread. And the bone-in tomahawk chop, which is more than two feet long.

Chef Tim Love draws inspiration from foods prepared on the Old West trail: easy-to-carry rubs (cocoa, coffee); ethnic influences, from German to Chinese; kangaroo (okay, not that. Love spent time in Australia and just happens to like it).

Hey, it worked at the Fort Worth original. And the Flatiron location looks great. Dark walls and the city skyline at sunset painting are city-meets-country, and the feel is urban cowboy-friendly to the max.

Can you possibly be this nice? Where’s the monster chef ego? “I just like to cook and make people smile.”

Well, okay. We’re speechless.


Lonesome Dove Western Bistro, 29 West 21st Street, between Fifth and Sixth Avenues (212-414-3139).