New York - November 03, 2006

Japanese Funhouse

Zenkichi Modern Japanese Izakaya

In a city that loves the see-and-be-seen song, it’s a new tune when a restaurant hides its diners.

But that’s how it works at Zenkichi, which opens today in Brooklyn. It’s an izakaya, a modern gastropub that follows the traditional rules of private Japanese dining — which means that you might feel like the only one in the place. (And you can actually hear the conversation at your table.)

Wooden tables are enclosed in nooks around a bamboo garden; the waitstaff flutters about and, after you get your food, approaches only when you ring for them. (Which must drive them nuts.) Mirrors conceal the true size of the 80-seat space — funhouse style — making navigating the three-story spot a tad confusing (especially after a few sakes).

But there are no illusions with the small-plates menu. Most dishes cost under ten bucks: soft-water eel and cream cheese tempura, Botan shrimp and avocado tartare, fresh tofu, and grapefruit agar gelee for dessert. Wash it down with a smooth glass of Suishin or Sapporo.

Now you see it, now you don’t.

Zenkichi, 77 North 6th Street, at Wythe Avenue, Williamsburg (718-388-8985).

  Charmer, Japanese Awesomeness, Romantic