New York - November 17, 2006

Midtown Mezze

Pera Restaurant Opens

Here’s something that doesn’t happen every day.

A no-hype restaurant in the city’s culinary nether zone has knocked. Our. Socks. Off. (We’ve still got tights on underneath.)

Pera bills itself as a “Mediterranean brasserie,” but the food, the waiters, and the guys in the open kitchen are all Turkish (except chef Jason Avery). The big, polished dining room has soaring ceilings, cool tones of orange and tobacco, and rich details like a zebrawood bar.

And it’s on Madison and 41st, no less. (All those hungry midtowners can finally have their meal.)

On to the dinner: fluffy eggplant dip slathered on just-baked bread. Beef and bulghur tartare. A trio of lamb, spicy shrimp, and sausage kebabs. Pidettes (small, open-face calzones) with spinach and pine nuts. Grilled lamb four ways. Even crab cake. (How do you say, “Thank you sir, can we have another?” in Turkish?)

By dessert, everyone forgot where they were.

For the East Side locals, it’s time to burn an effigy to the food gods. For everyone else, it’s a reason to hop the 6 train.

Pera Mediterranean Brasserie, 303 Madison Avenue, between 41st and 42nd Streets (212-878-6301).