Fine dining on lower Bowery, chicken sushi, black market absinthe. Culinarily speaking, all risky gambles.
Opening a Mexican home-cooking joint across from the future High Line at the safe end of the Meatpacking District, however, is one you can bet the house on.
Especially if you’re David Rabin and Will Regan, of Lotus and The Double Seven fame. For their latest, Los Dados, opening today, they’ve teamed up with SueƱos chef Sue Torres. She’s created a pass-that-over menu of tacos (roasted pork, coconut-infused halibut), ceviches (scallops with fennel and orange), and enchiladas (organic chicken mole).
The vibe is very neighborhood: bright walls, kitschy shrines and place mats, cool chandeliers. A take-out taqueria (complete with abuelita pressing tortillas) opens in a few days, and they’ll be serving into the wee small hours of the morning.
Rabin is a pretty excellent poker player, and he and Regan have been hatching this Mexican idea for about a decade.
“Los Dados” actually translates as “the dice,” but it looks like they’re holding a full house.
Los Dados, 73 Gansevoort Street, at Washington Street (646-810-7290).